海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程研究进展

    MESO-SCALE RESEARCH OF BEACH MORPHODYNAMIC PROCESSES

    • 摘要: 海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程是海岸海洋科学研究的重要研究内容之一。近20年来该领域发展较快,取得了一些重要的成果。对近岸带中尺度地形动力过程的碎波带地形与沙坝、冲流带地形与滩角、海滩风暴响应、观测技术手段等主要领域的进展进行了总结和评述,并对我国海滩研究提出要从加强观测手段和制定长期观测计划两方面来加强的建议。

       

      Abstract: Meso-scale beach morphodynamic processes are important to coastal research. There is significant progress in this field during the past two decades. We summarized and reviewed the major progress about surf zone morphodynamic and sand bar, swash zone and beach cusp, beach responses to the storm effect, measurement technical means of this field in this paper. Some suggestions have been put forward for better beach morphodynamic research in China.

       

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